April 8th, 2013
by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)
As I write this, the day after the latest jobless report came out, I could not help but think that we are facing a long term jobs problem. The economy produced only 88,000 new jobs last month, which is pretty disappointing when the “experts” were predicting something closer to 200,000. I have no doubt that, on a month-to-month basis, this jobs report is more reflective of the events of the day, things such as the sequestration.
But, while each month is something of a blip, I think this jobs report is taking place against a backdrop which represents a sea change in our labor force which is not going to reverse itself.
If you just focus in on the grape growing business (the business I am most familiar with), you will see that, as conservative a business as we are, the changes over the last decades have been huge. Perhaps most obvious is harvest. While it is still common to see hordes of workers go out into the field at harvest time with knives in hand, it is becoming more and more common to see a tractor driver and a mechanical harvester perform the same work.
So what took tens or hundreds of workers is now done by a number of workers you can count on one hand. Not only that, in many ways the mechanical harvester does a better job. You can argue both sides of this, but the bottom line is that unless hand harvesting is clearly superior (which it is not), the economies of mechanical harvesting will overwhelm any effort to perpetuate hand harvesting (except in the most artisan of artisan vineyards).
While harvesting presents the most obvious, “in-your-face”, example of mechanical replacing human labor, it is just that, the most obvious, but hardly the only, mechanization in the vineyard. Take pruning for example. I think it is only the dyed in the wool nature of our business that has perpetuated hand pruning. In Australia, where the human workforce to tend to the vineyards is lacking, they have managed to mechanize this, along with many other, vineyard tasks. Minimal pruning, which involves creating a hedge with a mechanical trimmer, works very well in many, if not most, vineyards. It particularly lends itself to very vigorous vines better than the “normal” hand pruning. However resistant to change our industry might be, the inexorable demand for more efficiency is going to greatly reduce the amount of human labor necessary to tend the vine.
But what holds true in the vineyard holds even more true in other industries that are more cutting edge. I hope that with the recovery taking place, we find ourselves in a situation approaching full employment. But we are paddling upstream. As workers without specialized skills become less and less able to hold their own against mechanization, each recovery following a recession is probably going to exhibit less and less opportunity for those of only average abilities. Business is becoming more and more efficient, which is a good thing. Right now, we are producing more than we were pre- recession, but with fewer employed. Increasingly large portions for labor force are becoming irrelevant.
What to make of this? You can certainly view this as a kind of utopia, a world where we are released from the burden of mindless physical labor. Machines, fairly stupid at the moment, but destined to be replaced by more and more intelligent robots, will be able to do much of what people have done since the dawn of human time.
This utopia is a wonderful thought. But it’s not happening. Those possessed of the intelligence and skills to succeed in our hyper technical economy are doing extremely well. Those lacking those skills struggle. With them, this revolution in the means of production is not freeing them from the burdens of mindless labor, but relegating them to the unemployment line. As the demand for unskilled workers declines, while their numbers remain steady, or even increase, the law of supply and demand tells us that what they can demand for their labors will decline as well. Anyone who doesn’t like it is welcome to leave, as there are many more than willing to take his place. The cost of many things will plummet as the labor necessary to produce them is replaced by a machine working for pennies instead of dollars. For those with secure employment, this is great. For those without the skills to obtain a good job, it’s hard to see how things aren’t going to go from bad to worse. Are we going to end up being a society that looks a whole lot more like the one Marx predicted than we would have ever imagined?
In the past, at least in the long term, the advance in technology has resulted in development of new types of jobs sufficient to keep the labor force fully employed, or at least within shouting distance of it. I have my doubts that this is going to continue to be the case. I hope I am wrong, but at this point the development of technology to replace relatively unskilled workers is taking place at a breakneck pace. I doubt that the expanding economy, the thought that a rising tide raises all boats, can overcome the sharp decline in the need for relatively unskilled labor.
My guess is that the average reader of this post has an IQ of 120 or higher. But for every 120, there is an 80. These “80’s” shouldn’t just be fodder for the more well-to-do, for those more fortunate when they were passing out genes. The vast majority of these “80’s” are decent, law-abiding, hard-working people. They deserve better than to have to live on the table scraps of the more fortunate.
So we have two alternative visions of the future. In one, the utopian one, we all are free to spend more time doing what we want, as opposed to having to produce what we need to live. The second alternative is a darker one. Those who have the good fortune to possess those skills that machines do not may well live in that utopia. But for those who lack those skills, is their future going to be a miserly existence on the edges of society?
Posted in Harvest, Viticulture | 2 Comments »

April 3rd, 2013
by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)
Every Wednesday I post my recommendations of the best of last week’s postings concerning wine, whether blogs or news. I list them in the order I read them, so you shouldn’t infer anything about the order in which I list these posts.
Wine Industry Political Connections: By The Numbers
Fermentation
http://fermentationwineblog.com/2013/03/wine-industry-political-connections-by-the-numbers/
This takes a look at campaign contributions during the last election cycle. What is most prominent in the numbers is that producers and wholesalers pretty much have the field to themselves, to the exclusion of retailers and consumers.
How I come up with ageability recommendations
Steve Heimoff
http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2013/03/27/how-i-come-up-with-ageability-recommendations/
Heimoff sets out his parameters for judging whether a wine is ageable. Personally, I think much of this is a crapshoot. I would agree with his first cut, that a wine that is seriously deficient in any significant regard is unlikely to age well. Past that, I think it’s a “who knows?”
Revisiting The Wine + Chocolate Pairing Mine Field
1WineDude
http://www.1winedude.com/pairing-wine-and-chocolate-successfully/
I am always amazed at the accepted wisdom that chocolate and wine pair well together. My own experience is exactly the opposite. I wrote about this subject once when I was invited to assess these pairings at a wine festival, http://artisanfamilyofwines.com/blog/?p=203.
1WineDude generally seems to have the same reaction as I did, although he does find some pairings that work. The only pairings that work for me were sweet wines with chocolate; dry wines with chocolate were always a bust.
Are ultra expensive wines worth it?
jamie goode’s wine blog
http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/uncategorized/are-ultra-expensive-wines-worth-it
Goode finds the value in an old, expensive wine largely comes from the story concerning the wine, not it’s intrinsic quality as a beverage. I have a much simpler answer to the question “Are ultra expensive wines worth it?” No.
For keeping up to date with what’s going on the in wine world, the best all around source is http://winebusiness.com.
Posted in Good Reads | No Comments »

April 1st, 2013
by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)
As we try to open our winery and tasting room, I think (maybe) we are heading into the home stretch, at least as far as getting the necessary applications in is concerned.
I spend a decent amount of time dealing with real estate investment, and I’m always blown away how for every transaction you seem to end up with something between Moby Dick and War and Peace once you have added up all the documents that you need to sign to buy or sell a property.
But the real estate business can’t hold a candle to the wine business. If buying a property means having to deal with a Moby Dick of paperwork, trying to start a winery seems like something equivalent to the entire corpus of 19th-century American literature. I used to consider myself a winemaker. Now I think of myself as a professional paper pusher.
But maybe it’s coming to an end. Then again, maybe I’m just fantasizing that because if I truly believe that this paper pushing frenzy was going to go on and on, I think I might shoot myself.
I am not, by nature, anti regulation. I think there are lots of things that you can’t just allow people to do willy-nilly without any supervision.
But as I’ve worked my way through this process, I can’t help but feel that things have gotten out of hand. Each requirement makes sense when you look at it narrowly; however, when you add them all together, it becomes an overwhelming challenge to comply with every one of them. So the exercise becomes one of dotting i’s and crossing t’s.
What increases the problem exponentially is the fact that you’re dealing with a number of jurisdictions. There’s no one place you can go, fulfill their requirements, and walk out with the right to open winery. Have you complied with the federal requirements? That’s good, but don’t forget the state. Covered that too? Well, don’t forget the county. But it’s not just the “County”. It’s planning, it’s building and safety, it’s health.
The latest form I had to fill out required that I designate the location and size of the various functions of the winery. Where are we going to crush? Press? Store barrels? Store finished wine? For each of those, how large is the area going to be.
I have a ready answer to each of those: how the hell should I know? When we get in, we’ll try putting the tanks one place, and if that doesn’t work, we’ll put them someplace else. I think I know where we’ll put the crusher, but maybe it’ll turn out that that’s too far from the electrical outlet, or something.
Of course, putting: “how the hell should I know?” on the form doesn’t cut the mustard. So I made my best stab at it, and hopefully I’ll end up not being too wrong.
I guess the saving grace to all this is that while they are big on requirements, enforcement is virtually nonexistent. I am quite sure that if enforcement were even half assed, the wine business, as we know it, would cease to exist.
At any rate, it looks like we will be ready to submit to the Feds, the state of California, and Solano County all within the next week. I have to admit I’m keeping my fingers crossed on that, though.
After that, I am sure everything will just sale through, and we’ll be up and running shortly. Maybe that’s a fantasy, but it keeps me going.
Posted in Wine Marketing, Wine Sales and Pricing | No Comments »

March 27th, 2013
by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)

Every Wednesday I post my recommendations of the best of last week’s postings concerning wine, whether blogs or news. I list them in the order I read them, so you shouldn’t infer anything about the order in which I list these posts.
What’s hot and what’s not: Wine sales in 2012
Wine Curmudgeon
http://www.winecurmudgeon.com/my_weblog/2013/03/whats-hot-and-whats-not-wine-sales-in-2012.html#more#ixzz2ONzQGXg2
Nothing terribly shocking here. Pinot Noir replaced Merlot as the number 2 red. Syrah, lamentably, continued its downward slide.
What’s the One Job Wineries Can’t Fill?
SVB on Wine
http://svbwine.blogspot.com/2013/03/whats-one-job-wineies-cant-fill.html#more
As direct to consumer sales become more and more important, especially to smaller wineries, the skill set to succeed at this is largely wanting in the wine business. This post outlines the skills needed, and the need to look outside the wine business to find that talent.
Wine Producers, Are Your Voices Being Heard? (A Glimpse into 1WineDude’s Cellar)
1WineDude
http://www.1winedude.com/wine-producers-are-your-voices-being-heard-a-glimpse-into-1winedudes-cellar/#more-10011
I can’t say why I found this post so interesting but I did. The task of cataloguing a wine cellar (a major undertaking) exposed the surprising excesses and shortages in various wines. Having done this task a long time ago, I would advise that cataloguing your wine cellar, as monumental a task as it is, is nothing compared to keeping it current as wines get consumes and purchased.
The End of Terroir
Steve Heimoff
http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2013/03/18/the-end-of-terroir/
I’m always happy to hear someone state the truth about terroir, that it is more of a marketing concept than one having anything to do with real wine. In theory, terroir actually exists. But if it really did exist, then knowledgeable tasters should be able to pick out wines blind based on their terroir. They can’t. End of discussion.
Meet the new meme: terroir as marketing
Steve Heimoff
http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2013/03/19/meet-the-new-meme-terroir-as-marketing/
This post is a riff on the last one, one that makes note of the use of terroir as a marketing ploy. That it’s used on bulk wines blended together from different regions doesn’t help matters, but since the concept is a total fallacy to begin with what does it really matter?
For keeping up to date with what’s going on the in wine world, the best all around source is http://winebusiness.com.
Posted in Good Reads | No Comments »

March 25th, 2013
by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)
If you don’t believe in climate change, you may want to go do something else rather than read this post. But if you do, then you should first read this blog by Dr. Vino: Confronting climate change in Germany - four views, http://www.drvino.com/2013/03/20/confronting-climate-change-in-germany-four-views/#more-12320)
The quandary these German face: If you’re a cool climate wine growing region, how do you deal with climate change? This post highlights the approaches taken by a few German growers. This problem isn’t imminent in the sense that Germans are still going to able to produce world class Rieslings for some time. But you can only do so much to counteract increasing heat. And heat will continue to increase. A few decades down the line…
I sympathize with the efforts of these German winemakers. And there are things you can do. You can orient your rows differently, adjust your irrigation practices (if you irrigate), pick earlier, play around with your trellis system, and so one. But let’s be honest. These practices are fine if you’re at the margins. If you’re a littler hotter than you’d like to be, some of these practices can bring you back into your comfort zone.
But if you’re a lot hotter than you want to be, these things aren’t going to work very well. And that’s probably where we’re going to be a few decades down the road. To be sure, there is not going to be a uniform increase in heat across the planet. Even as the average temperature rises, that does not mean that the temperature in any particular area will follow suit. It may well be some areas will cool as the planet in general warms. So some areas may well simply dodge the bullet and continue on with business as usual.
That being said, I think it’s fair to assume that most winegrowing regions will experience an increase in temperature over the next decades. If playing around the edges isn’t enough to compensate for the increased temperature, what to do?
I think we’re going to see some combination of the following adaptations.
First, a winemaker can move. Maybe Napa Valley becomes too hot for world-class Cabernet, but there’s always Oregon. Or Washington. Or British Columbia. Or the Yukon. I am being a little facetious here, but you get the idea.
The winemaker also has the option of staying put. But if he stays put and keeps doing the same thing, he’s going to see a dramatic decline in the quality of this wine. But while the adaptations the Germans are experimenting with may only work around the margins, there are more dramatic adaptations which can be very effective. First and foremost is variety selection. There is no question that some varieties do well in cooler climates (Pinot Noir, Riesling). Others prefer hotter climates (for example, Petites, Zinfandel). So areas which excel at Pinot today may excel at Petite Sirah 30 or 40 years hence. Related to the idea of moving to other varieties is the possibility of using different clones of the same variety. While one clone of Pinot Noir is not going to produce identical wine to another, at least you’re still getting Pinot Noir.
Of course, all that assumes that you’re not in a low-lying area. If, due to rising sea levels, your vineyard is now sitting under a few feet of salt water, finding a new variety or clone is not going to do you a whole lot of good.
If you’re into genetic engineering, it may be possible to modify the genome of your favorite grape to address higher temperatures. Even if genetic engineering isn’t your thing, it may well be possible to develop clones of grapes using traditional breeding methods that will accomplish much the same thing.
Another possibility is that the winemaker stays put, more or less, at least in the sense that he doesn’t move 1000 miles. But altitude certainly has a lot to do with temperature, as we see with species moving up to higher elevations as the planet warms. Grapes are no different in this regard. So what may work well today at a 500 foot elevation may work just as well a few decades from now at 1500 feet or 3000 feet. Of course, that assumes that you can find a mountainside nearby. If you can’t, scratch this option.
Those are just a few thoughts. I guess I’m not too concerned that climate change is going to result in the elimination of wine grapes on the planet. And I do think with human ingenuity, we will find a way to deal with increasing temperatures. Of course, there is still human stupidity to consider. If the wine drinkers of the future are like those of today, and would rather drink a mediocre Cabernet than a world-class wine they have never heard of, you can scratch much of the above.
Posted in Viticulture | No Comments »

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