Biodynamics — Part 2

February 8th, 2010

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte Rosé)

jeff-smIn my last post, I looked at some of the views of Rudolf Steiner, the father of Biodynamics, outside of the field of agriculture.  Now, I’ll turn to his agricultural teachings.

According to Wikipedia:

The development of biodynamic agriculture began in 1924 with a series of eight lectures on agriculture given by Rudolf Steiner at Schloss Koberwitz in what was then Silesia, Germany, (now in Poland east of Wrocław). The course was held in response to a request by farmers who noticed degraded soil conditions and a deterioration in the health and quality of crops and livestock resulting from the use of chemical fertilizers.

Biodynamics has a number of facets. Perhaps the most notorious is the use of various preparations to, at least in theory, enhance soil quality.  Many of you have probably heard of burying a cow’s horn filled with cow manure.  I must admit, this thought would never have occurred to me, and I can’t imagine why he thought the cow horn would accomplish much.  But he did.  Some of his other preparations, though probably of dubious merit, bear some resemblance to compost teas, which are beneficial in many circumstances.

I will give Steiner this much credit-he did feel that his ideas should be tested in the field.  His current followers don’t seem to feel bound by his advice in this regard, however.

Another aspect of Biodynamics that I personally find particularly kooky is the belief that crops should be planted and harvested in accordance with the phases of the moon.  I can’t imagine waiting to harvest a grape crop that’s reached its peak until the moon was in a particular phase (and the crop now, by definition, overripe).

But some of his other beliefs weren’t so crazy.  He believed that pest and disease control should be based upon trying to have a balanced ecosystem (that’s my term, but it is his idea).  Some of his prescriptions for obtaining that balance seem pretty off base, but the basic idea is largely accepted in modern agriculture.  I know that I, and many if not most other farmers these days, seek to have a complex biosystem in their farms.  Where there is a complex and active ecology, it becomes more difficult for any one pest or disease to become so dominant as to pose a problem.  Not impossible mind you, but more difficult.

While doing comparisons of one farming technique versus another are fraught with problems, I think it’s fair to say that Biodynamics, to the extent empiricists have tried to test it, hasn’t fared well, at least against other farming systems (e.g., organic) that attempt to treat the farm as a complex organism, as opposed to something to  be controlled through chemical means.  I personally believe a system rooted in a more natural system of cultivation (i.e., little or no tillage, cover crops, etc.), but supplemented where appropriate with judicious use of chemicals, would outperform a Biodynamically farmed vineyard.  In fairness, if in general thrust if not in detail, the organic movement descends in some part from Steiner’s impetus.

I know I would certainly advise obtaining nitrogen in the soil through the planting of legumes rather than use of chemical fertilizers, other things being equal.  At the same time, while they shouldn’t be overly relied on, chemical fertilizers have their place, albeit a much smaller place than in a farm where they are the first and only means of fertilization.  I think it’s a good rule of thumb to try the more natural course first, and resort to chemicals when the more natural means aren’t getting the job done.  It’s a pleasant thought that the more natural way is always the better way, but in practice it doesn’t always work out that way.

Next post, my personal conclusions about Biodynamics.

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Biodynamics

February 5th, 2010

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte Rosé)

jeff-smI don’t believe in hiding the ball-I’m not and never have been a fan of Biodynamics.  It’s always struck me as the worst the wine world has to offer: myth and passion where deliberation and empirical science are what are called for.

I’d also had little use for Rudolf Steiner, the founder of Biodynamics.  I must admit that, having looked in the matter a little more thoroughly in researching this post, I’ve come to qualify my feelings towards him a bit.

So who was Rudolf Steiner?  Born in Germany in 1861, Biodynamics was a small part of his works.  It would be easy enough to dismiss him as some kind of nut, which, truth be told, he certainly was.

You could add racist as well, as he seemed to believe that Germans were the crème de la crème of humankind.  A few select quotes:

“Jewry as such has outlived itself for a long time. It does not have the right to exist in the modern life of nations. That it has survived, nevertheless, is a mistake by world history, of which the consequences were bound to come.” [Toos Jeurissen, trans de Tollenaere]

“We are within the great Root Race of humanity, which has peopled the earth, since the land on which we now live rose up out of the inundations of the ocean. Ever since the Atlantean Race began slowly to disappear, the great Aryan Race has been the dominant one on earth.

His spiritual beliefs were complex, but, again, on the fringe.  Here’s one quote:

Thus preparation for the Messiah of the Fourth Subrace is made in concealment, removed from Judaism, in Galilee. Judaism had never had a strong footing in Galilee, had never really penetrated there.

The racial character of the Galileans was very mixed. (See note 3.) He (the Messiah) must have nothing of the Galilean element in him. He must come from a hidden source. Hence the Apocryphal writings allege that he was a “mothers child.” (See note 4.) This was Jesus of Nazareth, the Galilean. He was a Chela of the third degree of Initiation. It was now a matter of making him into the highest Initiate for all that was to be fulfilled on the physical plane. This was achieved through the whole personality being taken possession of by another Being, the Christ, who represents the whole Fifth Root Race. The whole Fifth Root Race emerged in the Fourth Subrace. This is represented symbolically by the descent of the Dove. Only the most sublime imagery could be used to express the truths which apply here.”

Many more thoughts of this ilk can be found at http://rsquotes.blogspot.com/.  They, in total, give the impression that he was a pretty unusual character.

That all said, there is a lot to like in Steiner.  He was relatively benign in his views, even those that are most objectionable.  If he his views were racist (which they were), they weren’t particularly malevolent.  He seems to have had a brotherly love for all of mankind, his inferior as well as his superior races.  He detested Hitler (the feeling was mutual), and declared he could never live in a Germany ruled by him (he died before he had a chance to make good on his promise).

Of course, we’re less concerned here with Steiner’s views on these subjects than with his views on agriculture.  But I think it’s important t to realize that Steiner’s main source for his views was Steiner.  And I think a pretty good case can be made that someone whose views were so eccentric in other regards should be treated with some skepticism when he starts to pontificate on agricultural issues as well.

I’ll turn to those views on agriculture in my next post.

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Good Reads Wednesday

February 3rd, 2010

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte Rosé)

jeff-smEvery Wednesday I post my recommendations of the best of last week’s postings concerning wine, whether blogs or news. I list them in the order I read them, so you shouldn’t infer anything about the order in which I list these posts.

Dan Berger: The collapse of cabernet

http://www.napavalleyregister.com/lifestyles/food-and-cooking/wine/columnists/dan-berger/article_704bc688-0712-11df-a231-001cc4c002e0.html

Dave Berger’s bemoaning of the change of Cabernet Sauvignon from a balanced food wine into a alcohol behemoth owing more to oak than the underlying fruit. I think this is a reflection of the demise of the food wine, something I wrote about a few weeks ago. http://artisanfamilyofwines.com/blog/?p=897

Recession puts cork in 2009 wine sales

Frugal consumers make for ‘brutal’ year in U.S.

By Chris Macias

http://www.modbee.com/business/story/1026094.html

The title says it all.

Petite Sirah Versus Petite Syrah, Versus Durif, The Debate Heats Up

Juicy Tales by Jo Diaz

http://wine-blog.org/index.php/2010/01/27/the-petite-sirah-durif-debate-heats-up/

Petite Sirah or Durif, which is it? In America, it’s pretty much called Petite Sirah, but in France, where it’s not much grown, it was developed by Dr. Durif, and is called Durif. This article explores this history, and the controversy around the name Petite Sirah.

For keeping up to date with what’s going on the in wine world, the best all around source is http://winebusiness.com.

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Is It Time To Release This Wine?

February 1st, 2010

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte Rosé)

jeff-smOne of the most baffling issues in winemaking for me is when to release a wine.

One possible answer is when it’s at its prime.  As alluring as this answer is, it doesn’t work for a host of reasons.  First of all, a wine doesn’t reach its prime for quite a while.  Few wineries can afford to keep inventory in the warehouse until the wine has reached its “prime”.  Even if they could, by definition, once it’s reached its prime, it starts declining.  So, once it’s hit its prime, you need to get that wine out in the marketplace and sold relatively quickly.  If you can do that, great.  If not, you are stuck with a significant part of your production sitting in a warehouse growing tired.  Another problem with this approach is that when a wine has hit its “prime” is a matter of personal opinion.  Some like a younger more fruit-forward wine.  Others prefer a more mature wine.

A second possible answer is to just release it as soon as its bottled.  For most wines, and red wine in particular, this option runs into the problem of bottle shock.  For some period of time after bottling, the wine isn’t very palatable (for reasons I won’t get into now).  It’s common for the wine to develop some funky aromas, and often the fruit takes a vacation for a few months, leaving just acid and tannin, not a very delectable concoction.

Unfortunately, for some wines, that period of bottle shock can be many months, even a year. We’ve had wines that really took a year and half to get over bottle shock.  So, with bills to pay and inventory that could pay them sitting in the warehouse, do you start releasing some wine even though bottle shock isn’t completely over?  I think the answer to that question has to be “no”.  I think it’s a big mistake to put your product out in the marketplace when it’s still far from what it’s going to be.  You’re doing a disservice to the consumer, and probably forfeiting future sales to make a quick buck.

But even if you decide to wait out the bottle shock, the problem of release date isn’t a simple one.  The biggest problem is that not all of your wine is getting over bottle shock at exactly the same rate.  So you can pull a bottle, taste it, like it, and declare bottle shock over, only to find that another bottle is lagging behind and isn’t done. You can try pulling a few bottles, to get a better sample, but that’s still no guarantee that the next bottle will be just as good.

Add to the problem of variability is the problem bottle shock can disappear, only to reappear when the wine is transported.  I’m not 100% sure on this  point (would appreciate comments on this issue), but it does seem that symptoms of bottle shock in wines that we thought were past the problem have reappeared in wines that have been sent off to market.  It seems the longer the journey, the more likely that is to happen.

And finally, just to complicate the matter a little more, suppose the bottle shock symptoms blow off with a little aeration?  Or it only seems to be a problem in one in twenty bottles?  Or perhaps the problem will disappear entirely in the time lapse from release to when it actually gets opened?

So what do you do?  Do you hold on to wine that, as far as you can tell, is fine, just to give it a little extra time just in case?  If you do hold on to it, how long do you hold on to it for?  I really wish I had good answers to those questions, but I don’t.

To add still another twist to the problem, there’s another crucial consideration that affects when to release a wine, namely keeping product in the market.  If you’ve run out of the 2006 vintage, it’s pretty difficult to not release the 2007.  Otherwise, shelf space won at great effort and cost will need to be re-won when the wine is released.  On the other hand, if the 2007 seems ready, but the 2006 isn’t all gone, it’s a lot easier to hold on to the 2007 a little longer just to be sure.

So when to release a wine is a pretty complicated decision.  Bottle shock, market positioning, and cash needs all tug you in different directions.  As with pretty much everything about wine, there’s no one right answer.

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Scorecards – Part 4

January 29th, 2010

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte Rosé)

jeff-smLet’s continue with looking at my wine scorecard:

Circle L (low), M (medium), or H (high) for each
Bad OK Good
Visual
Color intensity L M H
Clarity, lack of haziness L M H
Viscosity L or M H
Nose (fruit)
Vegetal/herbal (bell pepper, green olive) H M L
Bright fruit (strawberry, blueberry, light cherry) L M H
Dark fruit (cherry cough drop, cassis, blackberry) L M H
overripe (prune, raisin) H M L
Nose (oak)
medium toast oak (cedar, bourbon, spices, vanilla) L or H M
high toast oak (char, smoky, bacon) L or H M
Palate
Bright fruit L M H
Dark fruit L M H
Fullness- front L M H
fullness - mid L M H
fullness - rear L M H
length of finish L M H
overall complexity L M H
General
acidity level L M or H
tannins - soft/round L M H
harsh green or drying tannins H M L
balance L M H
varietal character L M H
Flaws
ethyl acetate (nail polish remover) H M L
brett (band-aid, barnyard) H M L
Sulfide compounds (rotten egg, garlic, onion, rubber, canned corn) H M L
Oxidation H M L
Score on a scale of 1-10 (1 bottom 10%; 5 average; 10 top 10%
Write in here any other aspect of note:

Looking at the oak section, I’ve divided this category in to two, medium and high toast. This category, in theory, could have been broken down even further, but two categories seemed good enough. In each case, I assigned a low or high rating to the Bad column, and a medium rating to the Good column. This reflects my feelings about what a good amount of oak is (moderate), as well as my preference that there be a balance between medium and high toast. Again, you may disagree with my taste preferences, but you should have a decent idea how much of the two toast levels of oak the wine has.

I don’t pretend that everyone would, or should, agree with me on my preferences. For example, I like acidity, so High acidity falls in my Good column. But many people prefer much softer wines, which are lower in acid. For them, a High for acidity may belong in the Bad column. But most of us will be able to agree that a wine is High is acidity, even if we can’t agree on whether that’s a good thing. Ditto with oak, where whether the wine has a High, Medium, or Low level of either medium or high toast oak is a fairly objective standard which should garnish general agreement, even if we disagree whether a M in medium oak level is a good thing (as I believe it to be).

So the columns really reflect my personal approach to winemaking, with the rows being the objective side of things. I should also point out that I make generally bigger style red wines, something that is reflected in my Good, OK, Bad assessments—my scorecard would look a little different if I were making Pinot Noir (where I would find high color intensity a negative, not a positive).

I think someone else who wanted to use this scorecard may well adjust whether something is Good, Ok, or Bad to conform to their personal likes and dislikes, but the basic description of whether the wine has a lot of oak, or a moderate amount, or very little, is something that describes the wine in a fairly objective way.

I also include a section to cover flaws, since a wine otherwise perfect in every respect may be totally objectionable if it has a significant flaw. A wine that reeks of nail polish remover probably isn’t a very good wine, no matter how else it rates.

Finally, I’ve included a score section. This is my entirely subjective rating of the wine, similar to the Wine Spectator approach. I think that, for me, how the wine did on the preceding parts of the scorecard should give a pretty good idea of my overall preference for the wine (though probably not for someone else’s). But not always. Sometimes the wine, for some obscure reason, will garner an overall score that seems out of step with where it seems it should fall on my preference scale. Which means, I guess, that no matter how hard you try, you can’t totally pigeon-hole wine.

Occasionally, I use this scorecard when making wine. It allows me to see if the wine is doing a good job on the various criteria, and, most importantly, where it’s not, so that I can try to fix whatever is wrong.

Admittedly, this scorecard lacks the simplicity of others, which just assign an overall score. But most scores are as meaningless as they are simple. A scorecard, such as mine, would allow someone else to have a pretty good idea of how a wine tastes. That, at least in my view, is what a scorecard should do.


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