Good Reads Wednesday

January 25th, 2012

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)

jeff-smEvery Wednesday I post my recommendations of the best of last week’s postings concerning wine, whether blogs or news. I list them in the order I read them, so you shouldn’t infer anything about the order in which I list these posts.

The Essence of Wine: Earth

VINOGRAPHY: a wine blog

http://www.vinography.com/archives/2012/01/the_essence_of_wine_earth.html

Yarrow waxes poetic about the way wines pick up flavors from the dirt. Only problem is it’s a total myth. There’s no mechanism in the vines physiology for acquiring flavors from the soil.

When Judges Tell the Truth About the Wine Industry

Fermentation

http://fermentation.typepad.com/fermentation/2012/01/when-judges-tell-the-truth-about-the-wine-industry.html

One judge lays out the facts about our modern (which is anything but) system of wine distribution.

Does wine make food taste better?

The Wine Curmudgeon

http://www.winecurmudgeon.com/my_weblog/2012/01/does-wine-make-food-taste-better.html#more

We’ve all taken for granted that wine makes food taste better. And it makes sense that the acidity and tannin in wine would keep the palate fresh. But what is the empirical data to support us on this point? As usual, with most things wine-related, it’s kind of ambiguous.

For keeping up to date with what’s going on the in wine world, the best all around source is http://winebusiness.com.

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Not Cabernet

January 23rd, 2012

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)

jeff-smEvery once in a while, I get essentially the same inquiry, “I want to start a small vineyard in my backyard, and was wondering what clone of Cabernet Sauvignon would be best?”

That question always befuddles me, since it bypasses what should be the first question, “What variety would be best?” To that question, I never answer Cabernet Sauvignon, though perhaps if your backyard were in Oakville or Rutherford, Cabernet Sauvignon would be a good choice.

But for most places, Cabernet Sauvignon is a terrible choice. Cabernet Sauvignon is a very finicky grape, one that requires a very special set of circumstances to do well. Even in Napa Valley, the quintessentially correct place for Cabernet Sauvignon, it does well only in parts of the valley. If Oakville and Rutherford excel, Carneros, Calistoga, and Pope Valley are poor places to plant the grape. For Cabernet Sauvignon is a little like the porridge in the Little Red Riding Hood tale—it needs a climate that’s not too cold, and not too hot, but just right. A little too cold, and it yields a thin, vapid, tart wine. Too hot, and it loses all its varietal character, yielding a fat, low-acid wine that bears scant resemblance to those from Rutherford and Oakville.

I have another major problem with Cab. Almost every other red wine that you can name is a pleasure to make. They taste great almost from the moment you crush them. Once alcoholic fermentation is done, they bear the unmistakable characteristics of the wine they will end up being, albeit in a fairly brash, youthful expression. But even at this point, the wines are enjoyable. I often take a bottle of these young wines home to have with dinner, they are that pleasing.

The one exception is Cabernet Sauvignon. When young, the wines are undrinkable. You always go through a long period when you wonder if the wine will ever turn into anything you’d want to consume. At a year old, when pretty much every other wine in the winery is tasting great, the Cabernet Sauvignon still is tasting nasty. As a rule of thumb, it takes a couple of years before you start to get the exquisite flavors that Cabernet Sauvignon can attain. For many Cabs, those exquisite flavors never emerge, because the grapes themselves were substandard.

And by substandard, I mean of lower quality than mid-Napa produces. No doubt, there are other areas which produce fine Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Sonoma is certainly one. But most places don’t produce the highest quality Cabernet Sauvignon, mostly because they don’t have that “just right” climate.

This discussion takes us quickly to the whole subject of the American wine consumer, who has been taught that Cabernet Sauvignon is king of red wines. That fact accounts for another fact, that millions of cases of piss-poor Cab get sold just because they are Cab, while many other varieties languish even though their quality is high.

And so, when some wine aficionado decides he wants to start up his own vineyard and make wine (something I applaud), the natural choice is Cabernet Sauvignon. But it’s the wrong choice most of the time. First of all, most backyard grape growers don’t really know the particulars of their climate. Maybe it’s just like Oakville. More likely, it’s nothing like Oakville. If you want to take the chance that you’ll be in the small quasi-Oakville environment, go ahead and plant Cab. And go out and buy a lottery ticket while you’re at it.

What’s crazy about this is that so many other grapes, grapes that are capable of making great wine, thrive in a wide range of climates. Syrah comes immediately to mind. In a cooler climate, it yields a racy, lighter wine that’s a pleasure to consume with all kinds of food. In a hotter environment, it produces a jam-packed, concentrated wine. Both styles are enjoyable.

So when someone asks which clone of Cabernet Sauvignon to plant, my response (unless you live in Oakville) is none.

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Good Reads Wednesday

January 18th, 2012

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)

jeff-smEvery Wednesday I post my recommendations of the best of last week’s postings concerning wine, whether blogs or news.  I list them in the order I read them, so you shouldn’t infer anything about the order in which I list these posts.

Thank You, Science…Now Let’s Drink.

Fermentation

http://fermentation.typepad.com/fermentation/2012/01/thank-you-sciencenow-lets-drink.html

Why alcohol makes you feel good, and some of the potential ramifications.

Wine Ratings and the Nature of 1+1=2

Fermentation

http://fermentation.typepad.com/fermentation/2012/01/wine-ratings-and-the-nature-of-112.html

Wark weighs in on the subject of the objective vs. the subjective in wine ratings.  The gist is that people should understand that a wine score doesn’t imply anything objective about the wine, just how much that taster liked it.

More analysis of point scores

Steve Heimoff

http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2012/01/10/more-analysis-of-point-scores/

Interesting post on the subject of what a score means, at least when it’s given by Heimoff.

For keeping up to date with what’s going on the in wine world, the best all around source is http://winebusiness.com.

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Is alcohol a good thing?

January 16th, 2012

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)

jeff-smOn balance, I do consider alcohol a good thing, and wine better than most other alcoholic beverages in this regard.  But I have to admit, especially for a winemaker, to being more than a little conflicted on the subject of alcohol.

When I say, “on balance”, I mean it.  On the scales measuring how good alcohol is for people, I have to acknowledge that while there’s a lot on the good side of the scale, there’s a lot on the bad side as well.

I think the science concerning alcohol and wine is pretty clear that moderate consumption is a good thing.  Putting the science aside, there’s no questioning that a good glass of wine is a very pleasurable thing.  The wine we had with dinner last night, I have no doubt, greatly contributed to what was a very pleasurable evening.  And what’s the point of living if we don’t experience pleasure in the process.

And I have little doubt that compared with other alcoholic beverages, wine is less subject to abuse than are others, particularly hard liquor.

That said, it’s impossible to ignore that there’s a dark side to alcohol consumption.  Three memories stand out for me.

First, I was sitting at an intersection waiting for a red light to change a long, long time ago.  I heard the screeching of brakes for what was just a split second, much too short a time for them to have slowed down the pickup truck that smashed into me a moment later.  I was lucky.  Despite being pushed forward into the intersection, no vehicle was coming the other way.  If there had been, I could have been killed.

I got out of my car, which was totaled.  The driver’s seat of the pickup that hit me was occupied by an obviously drunk driver who had lost several teeth in the accident, and was lucky that his injuries weren’t much more severe.  For him, alcohol certainly wasn’t, on balance, a good thing.

My second recollection was when I was in Israel in the early 70’s, on a kibbutz for 6 months.  We had a number of newly arrived Russian immigrants join us.  I had never seen drinking anything like that.  Bottles of vodka were gone in minutes.  This wasn’t anything like a glass of wine with dinner.  This was full-throttle drinking, with no purpose other than intoxication.

My third and final memory that I’ll recount was a sailing trip that we took once on a small boat in the Ionian Sea.  A small flotilla of boats were sailed from island to island.  Pretty much everyone but us was British.  Every day a different island, but the agenda was always the same.  Get up after a hard night of partying, sail a couple of hours to the next island, and start drinking again.  As with the Russians, the quantity of alcohol consumed was, if I can pass judgment on the whole affair, simply excessive.  The purpose was inebriation, plain and simple.

What brought all of this to mind was a post by the Wine Curmudgeon on the latest stats on alcohol consumption around the world.  The post can be found at

http://www.winecurmudgeon.com/my_weblog/2012/01/its-true-americans-dont-drink-much-wine.html.  Perhaps of most interest is a world map showing alcohol consumption throughout the world, with red indicating the highest level.  Pretty much all of Europe is red, with America a relatively moderate beige.

I think the red (highest alcohol consumption) on the map probably gives something of an inaccurate impression.   France, where, or so I’d like to think, wine consumption, with some level of moderation, is the norm, is red, along with Russian, where alcohol abuse (with an emphasis on vodka) is widespread.

I don’t want to give the impression that I’m puritanical when it comes to alcohol consumption.  And getting downright drunk once in a while is fine, as long as driving isn’t involved, and the binge is only occasional.  But overall I much prefer America’s relatively moderate consumption (even if I’d like to see it go up some, particularly for wine) to the over-the-top and downright dangerous levels of drinking in some other parts of the world.

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Good Reads Wednesday

January 11th, 2012

by Jeff Miller of Artisan Family of Wines (Seven Artisans, Sly Dog Cellars, Red Côte)

jeff-smEvery Wednesday I post my recommendations of the best of last week’s postings concerning wine, whether blogs or news. I list them in the order I read them, so you shouldn’t infer anything about the order in which I list these posts.

2012 could bring more grape contracts, vineyard sales

Jeff Quackenbush

http://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/45663/2012-could-be-the-year-of-the-vineyard/

A shortage of grapes after a couple of short harvests along with rising demand bodes well for grapegrowers.

Natural Wine: The Ugly Underbelly

Fermentation

http://fermentation.typepad.com/fermentation/2012/01/natural-wine-ugly-underbelly.html

Must advocates of “natural wine” denigrate the rest of the wine-making world?

Another conversation about AVAs and terroir

Steve Heimoff

http://www.steveheimoff.com/index.php/2012/01/05/another-conversation-about-avas-and-terroir/

Another reminder of the limitations of terroir and AVA’s.

Wine prices in 2012

The Wine Curmudgeon

http://www.winecurmudgeon.com/my_weblog/2012/01/wine-prices-in-2012.html#more

Wine prices are going back up as oversupply is finally sold off and an undersupply of grapes and bulk wine reduce supply.

Wine and health

jamie goode’s wine blog

http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/uncategorized/wine-and-health

This posts touches a number of issues relating to how healthy (or not) wine is.

For keeping up to date with what’s going on the in wine world, the best all around source is http://winebusiness.com.

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